que pasa

Right, on to the second part of my Japan trip – Kyoto.  Gaijin is the Japanese word for foreigner, which I totally was.

Shinkansen is FREAKIN expensive
I paid 13,000 yen for an unreserved seat in economy class, one way.  Took 2.5 hours to reach Kyoto.
I wanna say that the Shinkansen really no big deal, you can't tell how fast it’s going (i.e. super fast), but apparently, that’s why it's such a big deal.  Oh well, I always thought the idea was to watch things zip by until your neck hurts from trying to turn so fast...

Anyway, just like the other time in Hong Kong, I tried to get a free upgrade to a really nice cushy seat in the best class cabin by just walking in and plonking myself down – to get my money's worth, you know.  But unlike Hong Kong, somebody actually reserved this seat and conductor actually comes by to check if you’re in the right cabin, so I had to change seats two times.

Japan summer sizzles and burns
Joy was complaining that it was really hot, but I kept insisting that it wasn't as hot as Singapore.  I had to eat my words when I arrived in Kyoto (and also when I returned to Tokyo on the last day).  It was ridiculously hot and humid.  It's like this wave of hot air smacks your face as you exit any building and hugs you tightly as you move around the day.  I was burnt lobster red, and even had a mild heatstroke at some point.

Thank goodness when I arrived, people were handing out fans for promotional material – it became one of my top four most treasured possession.  The other two were my cap, passport and wallet. 

Word to the wise, don't go to Japan in the summer.  If you must go and you don't like caps, use a wide-brimmed hat.  It's rude to use umbrellas - take up a lot of space on the sidewalks and poke other people’s eyes.  Wear a cap even if it doesn't feel hot because you'll feel the heatstroke later. Expect to be sun-burnt.  Drink lots of water, don't worry there are vending machines everywhere.

Kyoto = shrine/temple heaven
May I just say I have never been to so many temples and shrines in my life before, nor have I seen so many buddas before.  Although I don't subscribe to either Buddhism or Shintoism, I wanted to see what the temples and shrines were like.  Some were actually quite nice, and every shrine does have its own feel. 

I actually found a shrine that was supposed to be the place where people (including professionals) come to pray to the "soccer god" for blessings.  Actually, the "soccer god" has evolved into a "ball-sports god" because people left baseballs, volleyballs, water polo balls and tennis balls there too.

The night I arrived, there was this shrine festival going on.  This procession of men (old men, young men, even kids) were along the shopping street and they were chanting "wakoe wakoe, wakoe wakoe..." while they danced/jumped vigorously, and carrying this throne/altar thingy to their destination.  They came really closed to me and it was almost like they were a possessed mob.  Gave me goosebumps.

Getting lucky
I actually said to a friend, "Hey, let's go geisha-spotting tonight, we might get lucky!"  Only after I said it did I realize what I had implied, sigh.  Anyway, we got to see two geishas get out of a taxi to go for dinner and the next day I saw another two posing for some photographers.  One of them smiled back at me when I grinned at her. 

Apparently geishas and maikos (girls training to be geishas) are far and few between so I'm glad to see some.  I have to say, I thought geishas were supposed to be slim (like Zhang Ziyi in the movie) but I guess that’s not always the case.

One day pass bus cards – learn from my mistakes
In Kyoto, you can pay 500 yen and get a one day pass for unlimited rides for all flat-fare buses in the city.  This will pretty much cover any tourist destination and is a pretty good deal so long as you take more than 2 bus rides.  But it's not that easy to get, because nobody taught me how to get it! 

The first time, I threw my 500 yen fare down the coin collector machine and then indicated I wanted a card, but the bus driver was unhappy because he did not get to see how much I paid.  I think he asked me if I paid 500 yen, to which I nodded my head.  He decided to give me the benefit of the doubt and gave me my card.

The second time, I decided to ask the driver for the pass card first, he took it out and then pointed his open palm to the coin collector machine, so I dropped my money in.  WRONG.  You’re supposed to put the money in his palm!!!  How would I know right?  If you want me to put the money in your palm, then don’t point to the machine!  Place your open palm OVER the collector, not in a place where it could be mistaken for pointing to it!

Anyway, I think I damaged the reputation for all asian looking gaijins in Kyoto.  Sorry guys.

Asking for directions to non-tourist destinations is like charades
I'm pretty good with a map, really.  But without a map, my sense of direction is pathetic.  Without a map and any language ability, I'm even worse.  Thank goodness when I wanted to look for something that was not on the map (like UniQlo & Muji shops, or Krispy Kreme), I was at least with a friend who could speak a smattering of Japanese.

The trick is to ask the right person.  This meant scanning the crowd for someone who looked (age) and dressed like she would know the brands so that they could point us to the shops.  Then you say the brand, or point to the logo on the shopping bag (from our intended destination), and a series of hand actions that indicate "Big (as in large shop)," "Time (as in how long does it take to reach)" and "Far?" and then confirm the directions with a series of jerky hand motions.

Sightseeing recommendations
Within Kyoto itself, you should go to Kiyumizudera temple, Nijo castle, Kinkakujin temple, Maruyama Park at least. 

Don't bother with the Imperial Palace, it's not worth it because you only get to see the exterior of the buildings and you have to go there one day in advance to make the reservations.  Oh, I also set off the alarm when I lept across the drain to walk next to the castle wall so that I could walk in the shade because the heat was unbearable.  Guess that's not allowed, haha.

Nara – day trip, take a half day hike there.  Lots of deer, you can go up and snuggle one of them I think.  I got as close to patting some and stroking their ears.  Has a few UNESCO Heritage sites, apparently this place is rated #2 in scenery after Kyoto.

There are also some walking tour routes in Kyoto city you can take, which can be quite nice if the weather is good.  The information is readily available at the Kyoto City Tourism Info Office located at the Kyoto station.  You can also get bus route information there too. 

I think about 3-4 days in Kyoto is good.  Took an overnight bus back to Tokyo which was much cheaper (4,200 yen) and managed to sleep pretty well too.  Kyoto really was quite okay.